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Abstract
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Color gamut of cochineal, Dactylopius coccus costa, is limited to several tones restricting its application,
so, it is necessary to explore a simple and economic method to develop its color shades on textiles.
To this aim, in the present study, binary combinations of eight metal salts (Al, Sn, Cr, Cu, Fe, Ni, Co,
Zn) were exploited in conventional pre-mordant dyeing of wool with cochineal, afterwards, color
strength, color shade, and color fastness were investigated using reflectance spectroscopy and standard test methods. Binary metal mordanting produced different sober new color shades of dark and
light red, brown, magenta, purple, and black on wool with enhanced light, washing, and rubbing fastness. Interestingly, color matching of some legally restricted hazardous mordants like Cr was plausible
with alternative eco-friendlier binary mordants like Fe þ Zn. It was concluded that binary combination
of metal mordants not only is a simple route to extend the color gamut of cochineal on wool with
satisfactory color fastness but also makes natural dyeing eco-friendlier compared to conventional
dyeing
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